Wandering Around Wϋrzburg
A few days ago, M and I took advantage of a regional train pass that allowed us to head anywhere in the state of Bayern (Bavaria) for a combined fare of €26. We first rode the bus to Aschaffenburg where we boarded a two-hour local train to the city of Wϋrzburg. We hadn’t done much research before selecting it as our destination for a one-night adventure (inexpensive, interesting, and semi-local were our main requirements), and we weren’t sure what to expect. Perhaps for that reason, we were quickly captivated by the place.
Our hotel was an easy 15-minute walk from the train station, and after dropping off our backpack, we started to meander south through the old city toward a veg-friendly café M had read about. The café, Kult, was an edgy hole-in-the-wall located down an alley in a neighborhood filled with tattoo studios and used record shops. We were the least funky (and oldest) kids in the joint, but the staff was friendly and the menu was perfect. We ordered two groβes Biers (when in Bavaria…) and split the falafel plate and a soy schnitzel burger. (Tasty side note: Finding vegetarian fare in Germany is much easier now than it was on my first visit nearly 20 years ago.)
Satiated and eager to explore, we continued to wander around the city, eventually ending up at the base of a pedestrian bridge spanning the Main River. The bridge was filled with people, and the sounds of music and conversation drifted down to us. We climbed the stone staircase to investigate and found a small wine bar atop the bridge. We paid for two generous glasses of red wine (plus an additional €5 deposit on each one to make sure we returned them) and walked slowly to the other side, enjoying sunset views of the Fortress Marienberg looming high above the river and the sounds of a one-man-band.
In the morning, we continued our exploration of town, heading back across the river toward the fortress, a structure dating back nearly 1,000 years. We took the scenic route through Landesgartenschau Park, walking amid Japanese gardens and under stone bridges, following a series of steep switchbacks paved into the hillside. At the top, the fortress and its history were interesting, but more impressive were the views from its east-facing terraces. Carefully-tended gardens, vineyards, and rooftops sloped down to the river.
We stayed clear of the tour groups and took a gamble on a semi-secret archway to make our way back down the hill to the base of the bridge in the old city. A quick walk around the former palace (a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site) on the east side of the city capped our visit, and we made it to the train station just in time for a short journey home. On the train, we chatted about whether we might move to Wϋrzburg someday. While we wouldn’t drink wine on the bridge every night, I’d like having the option. –J.